Madeira intro
Madeira, one of the Portuguese islands in the Atlantic Ocean, also called the flower island, or even the Hawaï of Europe is a must-visit! It’s known for its flowers, a year-round pleasantly mild climate, epic hiking trails, spectacular landscapes, levadas, gorgeous coastlines, Ronaldo (who is born there), toboggans, lizards, poncha (the local drink), and its airport that is in the top 10 of Europe’s most dangerous ones (Because of the narrow runway and the quite windy place)! But don’t let that last one stop you from visiting this beautiful place! Also don’t worry if you don’t want to rent a car, because you can see a lot of the island, even without a car. Which I will explain to you in this Madeira itinerary!
Is it possible to visit Madeira without a car?
I want to start by saying that renting a car in Madeira can give you more freedom. You can get around the island on your own and have control of where and when you want to visit something. Just keep this in mind: if you want to drive there, the roads can be very narrow, and most hills are very steep.
If you don’t want to drive there, you can still visit Madeira without a car. I went for a week and saw a lot of the island without renting a car! So yes, it is possible. I found it even more relaxing not having to worry about driving!
Where to stay in Madeira without a car?
The best place to stay would be Funchal, the capital of Madeira! It’s where most public transport starts, where the location of the cable car is, and where most day trips start. There are many things to do in Funchal, and it is a great starting place to explore the rest of the island.
Everything in Funchal is within walking distance, so you can see and do a lot by staying there. I recommend staying in the Sé area or Zona Velha, which are both centrally located.
Funchal is also easily reached from the airport, which is located 20 km from the capital, near Santa Cruz. To get to Funchal from the airport, you can take a regular bus or the Aerobus for 5 euros to the city center of Funchal. Another option is taking a taxi, which will cost you more (around 25 euros) to get you to your hotel or hostel. It’s best to agree on the price beforehand.
Depending on where exactly you are staying in the city, the ride from the airport to Funchal will take about 30 minutes.
Madeira Itinerary
This itinerary is about staying seven days in Madeira, without a car, while being located in Funchal. Seven days is the perfect amount of time to stay in Madeira and to see a lot of the island. If you want to stay longer, you could change your location for some extra days on another part of the island, like Porto Moniz or Ponta Do Sol. But let’s say you’re staying seven days in Funchal. Then, you can spend at least three full days in and around Funchal, with Monte included. On the other days, you can go for hikes or day trips. Let me explain this more in this 7-day Madeira itinerary.
Madeira itinerary: a quick overview.
Day 1: Monte: Botanical garden(s), toboggan
Day 2: Exploring Funchal
Day 3: Hiking trip
Day 4: Day trip east side Madeira
Day 5: Dolphin and whale watching, harbor Madeira
Day 6: Day trip west side Madeira
Day 7: Hiking trip or a day trip to Porto Santo
Day 1: Monte
How to get there:
On your first day in Madeira, you can start by exploring Monte for a full day. Monte is another town next to Funchal. The village is 500 meters above Funchal, and the best way to get there is by cable car.
The cable car station is located in Funchal in Zona Velha, near the coast and next to Promenade Almirante Reis.
You can buy a one-way ticket up for example, and slide back down with a typical toboggan. But you could also walk back down to Funchal, or buy a return ticket on the cable car.
It’s best to think beforehand about how you want to plan your day in Monte because there are a lot of possibilities!
There are two botanical gardens you can reach by cable car. If you only want to visit Monte palace, you will only need tickets for the first cable car from Funchal to Monte. If you also want to be visiting the Madeira botanical garden, you will have to buy tickets for the second cable car that will bring you from Monte to the botanical garden.
The first cable car is called ’teleférico do Funchal’ (Madeira cable car) and will bring you from Funchal to Monte. A one-way ticket for an adult costs about 11 euros, and a round trip is 16 euros. The journey takes about fifteen minutes and is open year-round, except on Christmas. The opening hours are from 9h till 17h45. So it’s convenient to keep the closing hours in mind.
The second cable car is ’teleférico Jardim’ (Botanical garden cable car) and takes you from Monte to the botanical garden of Madeira.
What to see in Monte?
Madeira botanical garden:
I recommend you start with this one if you want to see both botanical gardens. The other one (Monte Palace) is, in my opinion, more impressive. Like this, you can visit them in proper order ;). So once you’ve arrived from Funchal in Monte, you will have to take the second cable car to the botanical garden. This cable car is a bit more hidden, but there are some signs (in the right direction) to find your way. This garden has a range of beautiful tropical plants from all over the world. And you will have stunning views over Funchal! A visit will take about two to three hours and costs 6 euros for an adult. A combination ticket with the cable car costs 13 euros.
After visiting this first garden, it must be around noon. There are some cafes and restaurants in Monte that are perfect lunch spots. ‘Local shop’ is a great place to grab a bite and drink while enjoying a great view. You can find this spot between both cable cars.
Monte palace tropical garden:
In the afternoon, you can give this garden a visit. If you only want to visit one garden in Monte, I recommend visiting this one! Monte palace tropical garden is a real gem where you could spend all day (although I could!)! A regular visit takes about three to four hours. It’s convenient to bring lunch, so you can picnic in the garden if you want to spend the whole day here. This tropical garden opens at 9h30, closes at 18h (the museum has different hours from 10h till 16h), and is open every day of the week. Adults pay 12,50 euros for entry.
This little paradise is a not-that-little and multileveled place that houses many exotic plants, flowers, koi fish, birds, fountains, oriental gardens, a collection of minerals, and much more.
You will do a lot of walking and climbing stairs here, so it’s best to wear comfortable shoes.
Another tip, at the west side of the garden, you can see some toboggan sliding! So if you aren’t going to take the slide down, you can still enjoy some happy people sliding down the hill from the garden! Don’t forget to enjoy the stunning views you will see overlooking the bay of Funchal.
Monte church and Monte Municipal park:
Behind Monte palace, after walking some more uphill (and some more stairs), you will reach the church of Monte. This church is the most important place of pilgrimage on the island and is home to the tomb of Charles I of Austria. Enjoy the views over Funchal while standing in front of the church. You can combine this visit with a walk in the park next to the church.
Wicker toboggans:
These ‘Wicker Basket sledges’ or ‘Wicker toboggans’ are one of the top tourist attractions on Madeira! If you have visited the church, you will have seen where the toboggans gather. The starting point is in front of the church and close to the park. The toboggans, made of wicker and wood, are driven by two runners or Carreiros (the men dressed in white and wearing the typical hats). They are using their boots as brakes and are taking you on a 2 km long ride down.
For a single person, it costs 25 euros, for two people 30 euros, and 45 euros for three people.
For more information, you can have a look at: www.carreirosdomonte.com
Day 2: Exploring Funchal
On the second day of this Madeira itinerary, I will tell you more about what you can see on a day in the place you are staying: Funchal.
You can easily walk around and explore Funchal on foot, which is convenient since you’re in Madeira without a car.
Some areas to explore are:
Zona Velha:
The old part of town is very charming with narrow cobbled streets. Rua De Santa Maria is the best-known street with most restaurants and bars. When strolling around Zona Velha, you will discover a lot of street art on the doors. If you get closer to the coast, you will see the beautiful yellow Sao Tiago fort. If you walk a bit further to the east side, you can also spot the church of Soccoro.
Great places to eat and drink something in this area (Zona Velha):
Padaria Pasteleria Mariazinha: A bakery in Rua Santa Maria, where I went almost every morning during my stay. You schoud try the pasteis de Nata! You can also order some coffee here. A great place to get your breakfast and start your day!
Xarambinha: They have good pizzas! It has a cozy atmosphere sitting outside on the square next to the Capela do Corpo Santo.
Santa Maria Restaurante: A restaurant with many good options! Sushi, risotto, pasta, vegan food, and yummy desserts!
Revolucion Rock bar: A must-stop on an evening out! Here I had the BEST Poncha during my stay in Madeira! They also make personalized cocktails, which you have to try! (Poncha is the traditional drink of Madeira made with sugar cane rum called Aguardente, honey or sugar, and either lemon juice or orange juice)
Historic center:
You can stop at the Mercado dos Lavradores when you’re walking from the old town in the direction of the historic center. Even if you’re not buying anything (because it’s pricy), you can still enjoy the colorful and well-organized fruit and vegetable stands and the activity at the market. Don’t forget to take a look at the fish section.
In the historic center, you can stroll around and visit the Sé do cathedral of Funchal, the City Hall, the municipal garden, and several museums like ‘Universo de memorias’ museum, 3D-museum and the sacred art museum ( Museu de Arte Sacra). There are also a lot of shopping possibilities. These last activities can also be perfect things to do on a rainy day in Madeira.
Great places to eat and drink something in this area (historic center): O Giro Churros & Paninis: The name says it all, they have delicious churros! Or you can grab a panini. Hamburgueria do Mercado: A perfect lunch stop with lots of burger choices. Restaurante Informal: Make sure to make a reservation for dinner! Portaliano: I had some heavenly risotto :). They have Pizza, pasta, risotto, and more. Rei da Poncha: Another great bar with super fun vibes! You can try Poncha in all different flavors :).
Santa Catarina park:
Next to the historic center, you will find Santa Catarina park and the chapel. The park is a lovely place to relax, hang around, read a book, people watching, or even sunbathe on the grass. Don’t forget to enjoy the view overlooking the harbor. You could also take a break at the Santa Catarina Café.
Day 3: Go on a hike
Madeira is known for its epic hikes! So when you are here, you have to do some hiking! While being in Madeira without a car, it is still possible to do these. You can book a walking tour! Most of them are group walks, but there are also private ones (although this will cost you more). These group walks are a perfect way to meet new people, especially when you travel solo.
I did book a full-day walk with ‘Madeira sunrise tours’ through my hostel the first day I arrived in Madeira. It’s best to book these tours a bit in advance to be sure you have a spot (depending on the season). There are also several tours you can book online on Viator and GetYourGuide.
A bus with a guide will pick you up at a place close to your hotel in Funchal. They drive near the point where the hike starts. Like this, you don’t have to worry about driving, navigating, or finding your way on the walk. It’s nice to be guided by someone who knows the place like the back of his hand.
Prices of guided group tours are around 35 euros per person for full-day walks. They also offer half-day walks if you want to do a shorter walk. These cost around 23 euros.
On Madeira, there are so many possibilities for hikes that it is hard to choose one! I did the North route, or Rota do Norte, also called Vereda do Larano (from Machicho to Porto da Cruz).
On this walk (with a moderate difficulty), we saw the most breathtaking views from the north side of Madeira! We also walked past levadas and many other beautiful landscapes.
Other epic hikes in Madeira are: (I hope to do more of them one day!)
Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo (difficult): This is a mountain walk to the highest peak of Madeira (1862 meters)!
Rabacal-Risco-25 Fontes (moderate): This is one of the most popular hikes on Madeira! It’s a Levada hike through the Laurisilva forest, and you will see the Risco waterfall.
Levada do Alecrim or Rosemary walk (moderate): This walk starts at Rabacal (same as the 25 Fontes walk) but goes in another direction. This trail takes you along Levadas, Laurisilva forest, and waterfalls. The spring of Levada Alecrim is where you arrive.
Ribeiro Frio to Portela (moderate): This is another Levada walk through the Laurisilva forest. This hike ends in the village of Portela.
Queimadas to Caldeirao Verde (moderate): The starting point of this walk is the Queimadas Forestry park, which then takes you along the walkway of the Levada Caldeirao Verde.
They don’t do all walks every day, so it’s good to check beforehand which walk you want to do on what day.
The north route, for example, is only on Sunday and Thursday (with Madeira Sunrise Tours).
Don’t forget to wear your comfortable walking shoes, waterproof jacket, a picnic, and water. Enjoy your epic hike!
Day 4: Day trip east side Madeira.
Day trips are a perfect way to see more of the Island since you are in Madeira without a car. There are several options for small group tours with a minibus that you can book via Viator, GetYourGuide, or in your hotel or hostel. The ones I did with FloraTravel were excellent and affordable (28 euros per person)! You meet new people and see a lot of stunning places! The driver/guide picks you up and drops you off close to your hotel, so you don’t have to worry about driving! Just sit back, relax, and look outside to enjoy the views.
So what did we see on this east tour of Madeira?
First, we went to Monte and made a short stop at the Monte Sanctuary of our lady of peace. After that, we went to the Pico do Arieiro miradouro. It wasn’t too cloudy at the viewpoint, so we were lucky to have clear views! It was one of the highlights of the day!
Before having lunch in Santana, we made a quick stop at a small trout farm close to a waterfall.
After lunch in Santana, we had some time to explore the village and see the typical houses of Santana. There weren’t as many houses as I thought there would be, only a few! I was happy to see them as they are typical Madeiran, but don’t expect Madeira to be full of these houses!
Later that afternoon, we went to Porto da Cruz and stopped at Casa do rum. After this stop, we headed to Canical, where we saw another highlight with spectacular scenery: Miradouro da Ponta do Rosto!
From this last long stop, we headed back to Funchal! So this was a full-day trip with everything included except lunch.
Day 5: Dolphin and whale watching
Madeira is a perfect place for spotting whales and dolphins! It’s a popular activity to do, and you will find several companies selling their tours in the harbor of Funchal! You can book a tour over there, or you can book them online. There are tours in the morning at 10h30 and the afternoon at 15h. Remember that they can change or cancel trips due to bad weather conditions. I made a tour during the afternoon with Seaborn for 30 euros (for one person). We sailed away with a catamaran for three hours, and it’s a fantastic way to see the island from another angle! We saw a lot of dolphins and whales, and that was great! After this dolphin and whale watching, we could relax on the catamaran, which was a nice break from all the sightseeing and hiking!
After or before this catamaran trip, you can explore more of the harbor of Funchal. There’s a long promenade worth walking, with food stands, bars, ice cream shops, and more! You will arrive near the cruise harbor if you keep walking along the promenade. That is also the location of the Christiano Ronaldo statue and museum (CR7), so football fans can have a look here!
Day 6: Day trip west side Madeira
There are still so many things to see on the island! And since you are in Madeira without a car, you can book another day trip, this time to the west side.
For this trip, I booked again with FloraTravels because the previous one I did was excellent!
So what did we see during this west tour?
First, we stopped in Camara de Lobos, a charming seaside town with colorful boats in its harbor. The next stop was at the Skywalk platform of Cabo Girao, the highest Cape in Europe! After that, we headed to the mysterious Fanal Forest. The forest has a unique beauty, and the trees seem to come straight out of a fairytale. It was sunny when we were there, but often there is some low-hanging fog around the trees, which makes the place even more mysterious!
We made a short photo stop at the breathtaking Miradouro da Eira de Achada on our way to Porto Moniz, where we went for lunch.
Porto Moniz is known for its natural rock pools, formed by volcanic lava! So if you have some time to swim, you should do that (there is a small entrance fee). During lunch, I had a perfect view of the ocean! The waves were spectacular, and I couldn’t get enough of watching them!
Later that afternoon, we continued our day trip to the Miradouro/viewpoint Veu da Noiva (which means bridal veil), where you can see a beautiful waterfall next to the ocean at this incredible scenic lookout!
After this, we made one last stop to taste some Madeira wine before heading back to Funchal.
Same as with the day trip I did before, they picked us up close to our ho(s)tels, it was affordable (28 euros per person), we had a well-informed tour guide, and it was a great way to meet new people. These minibus day trips are the best option to see a lot of the island while being in Madeira without a car.
Day 7: Go on a hike, relax, or go on a day trip
On your last day in Madeira, there are still many possible things to do!
You could go on another hike if you feel like it. There are so many hiking possibilities in Madeira that you could never do them all in one trip! I’ve put some extra epic hikes on day 3. You could go on another day trip, attend a Madeira wine tasting, visit some museums in Funchal, or relax at the pool or beach.
If you plan to stay more than seven days on your holiday, you could add some extra relaxing days on Porto Santo, the neighboring island of Madeira (Or you can go on a day trip)! Porto Santo is known for its endless gold sand beaches. From Funchal, a boat called ‘Porto Santo Line’ leaves every day at eight in the morning and returns from Porto Santo around six in the afternoon. The ticket price depends on the season. You can find more information on PortoSantoLine.
I hope you enjoyed reading this Madeira itinerary! Enjoy your trip to Madeira! And know that you can see a lot of Madeira, even without a car!
