Exploring Madeira without a car: A detailed itinerary



Madeira is a stunning island in the Atlantic Ocean and is part of Portugal. It is also known as the Flower Island due to its beautiful flora. The island has a mild climate all year round, which makes it a popular destination. Madeira is famous for its scenic hiking trails, breathtaking landscapes, irrigation channels called Levadas, beautiful coastlines, toboggans, lizards, Poncha (a traditional drink), and more!

While the airport in Madeira is considered one of the most dangerous airports in Europe due to its narrow runway and strong winds, it should not discourage you from visiting the island!

If you’re hesitant about driving on Madeira or don’t have a driver’s license, don’t worry because there are plenty of ways to explore the island without a car. In this Madeira itinerary, I will provide more information on how to make the most of your visit.

Is it possible to explore Madeira without a car?

Yes, it is! I explored Madeira for a week without a car and saw most of the island. I found it even more relaxing not having to worry about driving. However, if you decide to rent a car, it can give you more freedom to get around the island and visit places at your own pace. Just remember that the roads in Madeira can be very narrow, and the hills are steep, meaning driving can be challenging.

But it’s good to know you can explore Madeira even if you don’t want to drive.

Exploring Funchal

Where to stay in Madeira without a car?

I recommend staying in Funchal, the capital of Madeira! Funchal is a great starting point for exploring the island, as most public transport, cable car, and day trips start there.

There are plenty of things to do in Funchal itself, and it’s all within walking distance! I suggest staying in either the Sé area or Zona Velha.

Getting to Funchal from the airport is easy. The airport, near Santa Cruz, is about 20 km from Funchal. You can take a regular bus or the Aerobus for 5 euros to get to the city centre of Funchal. Alternatively, you can take a taxi, which will cost around 25 euros. It’s best to agree on the price beforehand. The journey from the airport to Funchal usually takes about 30 minutes, depending on where you’re staying.

Madeira Itinerary

I designed this itinerary for a seven-day trip to Madeira, where you won’t need a car as you will be staying in Funchal. Seven days is a perfect amount of time to explore most of the island, but if you wish to extend your trip, you can spend the extra days in another part of the island, such as Porto Moniz or Ponta Do Sol.

Assuming you will stay in Funchal for seven days, you can spend at least three full days exploring Funchal, including Monte. On the other days, you can go for hikes or take day trips. I will explain this in more detail in this 7-day Madeira itinerary.

Madeira itinerary: a quick overview

Day 1: Monte: Botanical garden(s), toboggan
Day 2: Exploring Funchal
Day 3: Hiking trip
Day 4: Day trip east side Madeira
Day 5: Dolphin and whale watching, harbor Madeira
Day 6: Day trip west side Madeira
Day 7: Hiking trip or a day trip to Porto Santo

Monte Palace Tropical garden

Day 1: Monte

How to get there:
Exploring Monte is a great way to spend your first day in Madeira! Monte is a beautiful town situated 500 meters above Funchal. You can get there by taking the cable car from the station in Funchal’s Zona Velha (near the coast at Promenade Almirante Reis).

You have a few options for your journey to Monte. You could buy a one-way ticket to go up and slide back down on a typical toboggan. Alternatively, you could walk downhill to Funchal or return with the cable car. It’s best to plan your day in Monte in advance since there are many things to do!

There are two botanical gardens in Monte that you can reach by cable car. If you only want to visit Monte Palace, you can purchase tickets for the first cable car.
The first cable car is the ‘Teleférico do Funchal’ (Madeira cable car), which will take you from Funchal to Monte. A one-way ticket for an adult costs around 11 euros, and a round trip will cost you 16 euros. The journey takes approximately fifteen minutes, and the cable car is open year-round except on Christmas. The opening hours are from 9 am until 5:45 pm, so keep the closing hours in mind.

However, you should buy extra tickets for the second cable car if you also want to see the Madeira Botanical Garden.
The second cable car is called ‘Teleférico Jardim’ (Botanical Garden cable car) and will take you from Monte to the botanical garden of Madeira.

Monte palace

What to see in Monte?

Madeira Botanical Garden:

I recommend starting with this place when you want to see both botanical gardens. Monte Palace is, in my opinion, more impressive and like this, you can visit them in proper order ;). So, once you’ve arrived from Funchal in Monte, you take the second cable car to the botanical garden.

The entrance to this cable car is a bit hidden, but you can follow the signs in the right direction to find your way. This garden has a range of beautiful tropical plants, and you can enjoy stunning views over Funchal! A visit to the garden will take around two to three hours and costs 6 euros for an adult. A combination ticket with the cable car costs 13 euros.

Madeira Botanical garden

After visiting the first garden, it should be around noon. You’ll find some cafes and restaurants in Monte that are perfect for lunch. “Local Shop” is a great place to grab a bite and drink while enjoying a great view. You can find this spot between both cable cars.

Monte Palace Tropical Garden:
In the afternoon, you can visit this garden. If you only want to see one garden in Monte, I recommend this one! Monte Palace Tropical Garden is a real gem where you could easily spend all day! A regular visit takes about three to four hours.

It’s convenient to bring lunch, so you can picnic in the garden if you want to spend the whole day here. This tropical garden opens at 9:30 am, closes at 6:00 pm (the museum has different hours from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm), and is open every day of the week. Adults pay 12.50 euros for entry.
This multi-level paradise houses many exotic plants, flowers, koi fish, birds, fountains, oriental gardens, a collection of minerals, and much more.
It’s best to wear comfortable shoes because you will do a lot of walking and climbing stairs.

Another tip: you can see some toboggan sliding on the west side of the garden! So, if you don’t slide down Monte with a basket, you can still enjoy seeing some happy people sliding down the hill from the garden! Don’t forget to enjoy the stunning views overlooking the bay of Funchal.

Monte Palace tropical garden

Monte Church and Monte Municipal Park:

After climbing some stairs close to Monte Palace, you will arrive at the church of Monte or Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte. This church is considered the most important pilgrimage site on the island and houses the tomb of Charles I of Austria. From the church, you can admire the stunning views of Funchal. You can combine this visit with a walk in the park next to the church.

Wicker toboggans:

The ‘Wicker Basket sledges’ or ‘Wicker Toboggans’ are one of the top tourist attractions on Madeira! If you have already visited the church of Monte, you may have seen where the toboggans gather. The starting point is in front of the church and near the park. 

The baskets of wicker and wood slide down the hill accompanied by two runners or ‘Carreiros’, who wear white clothes and typical hats. They use their boots as brakes and take you on a 2 km ride downhill.

For one person, it costs 25 euros, for two people 30 euros, and 45 euros for three people. For more information, please visit www.carreirosdomonte.com.

Day 2: Exploring Funchal

Street art in Zona Velha Funchal

On the second day of this Madeira itinerary without a car, I will give you more details about what you can see and do in Funchal. You can easily walk around and explore Funchal on foot, which is quite convenient.

Some of the areas that you can explore include:

Zona Velha:

The old part of town is very picturesque, with narrow, cobbled streets. Rua De Santa Maria is the main street with plenty of restaurants and bars. As you walk through Zona Velha, you will come across many doors with street art!

If you head towards the coast, you will see the beautiful yellow Sao Tiago fort. If you continue walking towards the east side, you will also spot the Church of Soccoro.

Great places to eat and drink in this area (Zona Velha):

Padaria Pasteleria Mariazinha: During my stay, I used to visit this bakery in Rua Santa Maria almost every morning. You have to try their Pastel de Nata and order some coffee. It’s a great place to get your breakfast and start your day!

Xarambinha: They serve good pizzas! The atmosphere is cosy, and you can sit outside on the square next to the Capela do Corpo Santo.

Santa Maria Restaurant: A restaurant that offers many delicious options! Sushi, risotto, pasta, vegan food, and yummy desserts!

Revolucion Rock bar: A must-stop for an evening out! During my stay in Madeira, I had the BEST Poncha here! Poncha is a traditional drink of Madeira made with sugar cane rum called Aguardente, honey or sugar, and either lemon juice or orange juice. They also make personalized cocktails, which you have to try!

Update 2023: Unfortunately, Revolucion Rock Bar is no longer on Rua de Santa Maria. They now serve cocktails on Wednesday evenings exclusively at the Castanheiro Boutique Hotel. But they have new plans for 2024, which you can keep up with on their Instagram page.

Historic center:

When heading to the historic centre from the old town, check out the Mercado dos Lavradores. This market has a lot of colourful and well-organized fruit and vegetable stalls, making it a fun place to explore. However, the prices are usually high, so it may not be the best place to buy groceries. The market can be busy, and while you’re there, don’t forget to visit the fish section too. 

In the historic centre, you can take a walk and explore several interesting places such as the Sé do Cathedral of Funchal, the City Hall, the municipal garden, and various museums such as the ‘Universo de Memorias‘ museum, the 3D museum, and the Sacred Art Museum (Museu de Arte Sacra). There are also plenty of shopping options in the area. These activities can be perfect for a rainy day in Madeira as well.

Here are some great places to eat and drink in the historic centre:

O Giro Churros & Paninis: As the name suggests, this place offers delicious churros and paninis!

Hamburgueria do Mercado: A perfect lunch stop with many burger choices available.

Restaurant Informal: This is a fantastic restaurant with delicious food! I highly recommend making a reservation if you plan to visit.

Portaliano: You must try their heavenly risotto! They also offer pizza, pasta, risotto, and more.

Rei da Poncha: Another great bar with a fun atmosphere where you can try Poncha in different flavours!

Historic center Funchal

Santa Catarina Park:

Santa Catarina Park is a lovely spot next to the historic centre. The park has a charming atmosphere, perfect for unwinding. You can read a book, people-watch, or sunbathe on the grass. Don’t forget to check out the stunning view of the harbour from the park. And if you need a break, you can always grab a coffee at the Santa Catarina Café.

Santa Catarina park

Day 3: Go on a hike

Madeira is famous for its epic hiking trails! So, while you’re in Madeira, you have to go hiking! Even if you don’t have a car, you can still enjoy the hiking trails by booking a walking tour. Most tours are group walks, but there are also private ones, which are a bit more expensive. Group walks are also an excellent way to meet new people when you travel solo!

I booked a full-day walk with ‘Madeira Sunrise Tours’ through my hostel on the first day I arrived in Madeira. It’s best to book these tours in advance to ensure you have a spot, especially during peak season. You can also book several tours online on Viator and GetYourGuide.

A bus with a guide will pick you up from a location close to your hotel in Funchal and take you to the start of the hike. This way, you don’t have to worry about driving, navigating, or finding your way on the walk. It’s nice to be guided by someone who knows the place as the back of their hand.

Guided group tours cost around 35 euros per person for full-day walks, and they also offer half-day walks if you prefer a shorter hike, which costs about 23 euros.

There are so many hiking trails on Madeira that it’s not easy to choose just one hike to go for! I did the North route, or Rota do Norte, also known as Vereda do Larano (from Machico to Porto da Cruz). This moderately challenging walk offered breathtaking views of the north side of Madeira, including Levadas and many other beautiful landscapes.

North route Madeira

Here are some other epic hiking trails in Madeira that I hope to explore one day:

Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo (difficult): This mountain walk takes you to the highest peak of Madeira, which stands at 1862 meters above sea level.

Rabacal-Risco-25 Fontes (moderate): This is one of the most popular hikes in Madeira. It’s a Levada hike that takes you through the beautiful Laurisilva forest, and you’ll be able to see the Risco waterfall.

Levada do Alecrim or Rosemary walk (moderate): This walk begins at Rabacal, the same starting point as the 25 Fontes walk, but goes in a different direction. This trail takes you along Levadas, Laurisilva forest, and waterfalls. The spring of Levada Alecrim is where you arrive.

Ribeiro Frio to Portela (moderate): This Levada walk also takes you through the Laurisilva forest and ends in the lovely village of Portela.

Queimadas to Caldeirao Verde (moderate): This walk begins at the Queimadas Forestry Park and leads you along the walkway of the Levada Caldeirao Verde.

Please note that these hikes are not every day, so it’s best to check beforehand which hike you want to do on what day. For instance, the north route is only available on Sundays and Thursdays (with Madeira Sunrise Tours).

Wear comfortable walking shoes and a waterproof jacket, and bring a picnic and enough water. Enjoy your epic hike!

Day 4: Day trip east side Madeira.

Pico do Arieiro

Day trips are a perfect way to see more of the island since you are in Madeira without a car. There are several options for small group tours with a minibus that you can book via Viator, GetYourGuide, or in your hotel/hostel. The ones I did with FloraTravel were excellent and affordable (28 euros per person)!


These tours provide an opportunity to meet new people and see stunning places! The driver/guide will pick you up and drop you off close to your hotel, so you don’t have to worry about driving. You can sit back, relax, and enjoy the views outside.

Santana house

So, what did we see on this east tour of Madeira?

We had a fantastic day filled with sightseeing and exploration. Our first stop was at the Monte Sanctuary of our Lady of Peace, followed by a visit to the Pico do Arieiro Miradouro. We were lucky it wasn’t too cloudy at the viewpoint, and we could enjoy the breathtaking views.

Next, we made a short stop at a small trout farm near a waterfall before having lunch in Santana. After lunch, we explored the village and saw some typical houses of Santana. Although there weren’t as many houses as I expected, I was happy to see them as they are typical Madeiran. However, don’t expect a lot of these houses in Madeira.

Later in the afternoon, we stopped at Casa do Rum in Porto da Cruz before heading to Canical to see yet another highlight of the day: Miradouro da Ponta do Rosto, which offered spectacular scenery. 

From there, we returned to Funchal, completing a full-day trip that included everything except lunch.

Miradouro da Ponta do Rosto

Day 5: Dolphin and whale watching

Madeira is a fantastic location for spotting whales and dolphins! It’s a popular activity, and you will find several companies selling their tours in the harbour of Funchal! You can book a tour either on-site or online. There are tours in the morning at 10h30 and the afternoon at 15h.
Remember, trips may be changed or cancelled due to poor weather conditions.

I booked an afternoon tour with Seaborn for 30 euros per person. We sailed away on a catamaran for three hours, a great way to see the island from a different perspective. We spotted many dolphins and whales, which was a fantastic experience. After the dolphin and whale watching, we could relax on the catamaran, which was a nice break from all the sightseeing and hiking!

You can explore more of the Funchal harbour either before or after your catamaran trip. There is a long promenade that is worth walking, with food stands, bars, ice cream shops, and more.
If you continue walking, you’ll eventually come across the cruise harbour, where you can find the Christiano Ronaldo statue and museum (CR7) – something for football fans!

Day 6: Day trip west side Madeira

Camara de Lobos

There are still so many things to see on the island! And since you’re in Madeira without a car, you can book another day trip to explore the west side. For this trip, I booked again with FloraTravels as I had an excellent experience with them on my previous tour.

So, what did we see during this west tour?

First, we stopped in Camara de Lobos, a charming seaside town with colourful boats in its harbour. Then, we headed to the Skywalk platform of Cabo Girao, the highest Cape in Europe!

After that, we visited the mysterious Fanal Forest. The forest has a unique beauty, and the trees seem to come straight out of a fairytale. When we were there, it was sunny, but often there can be low-hanging fog around the trees, which makes the place even more mysterious!

Fanal Forest

We stopped briefly to take photos at the stunning Miradouro da Eira de Achada on our way to Porto Moniz, where we had lunch. 

Porto Moniz is known for its natural rock pools formed by volcanic lava. If you have time, you should enjoy the pools! (there is a small entrance fee). At lunch, I had a great time at the restaurant near the pools, and I was mesmerized by the stunning ocean views.The waves were spectacular, and I couldn’t stop watching them!

Porto Moniz

Later that afternoon, we continued our day trip to Miradouro Veu da Noiva (which means bridal veil), a scenic viewpoint where we saw a beautiful waterfall next to the ocean. After this, we made one last stop to taste some Madeira wine before heading back to Funchal.

Just as on the previous day trip I did, they picked us up near our hotel, and the cost was reasonable at 28 euros per person.
Our tour guide was knowledgeable, and it was an excellent opportunity to meet new people. Minibus day trips are the perfect way to explore the island of Madeira without a car and see most of its beauty.

Miradouro Veu da Noiva

Day 7: Go on a hike, relax, or go on a day trip

On your last day in Madeira, there are still plenty of possible things to do. You could go hiking because Madeira has numerous stunning hiking trails! On day three, I suggested some other epic hikes.

Alternatively, you can opt for another day trip, Madeira wine tasting, museum visits in Funchal, or relax by the pool or beach.

If you are staying for more than seven days, you can consider spending some additional relaxing days on Porto Santo, the neighbouring island of Madeira. Or you can go there for a day! Porto Santo is known for its beautiful golden sand beaches. Every day, a boat called ‘Porto Santo Line’ leaves from Funchal at 8 in the morning and returns around 6 in the evening. The ticket prices vary according to the season. You can find more information on the Porto Santo Line website.

I hope you enjoyed reading this itinerary, and I wish you a wonderful trip to Madeira!
Remember that there is plenty to see and do in Madeira, even without a car.

If you plan to visit more of Portugal, check out my other blog posts:

Three Days in Porto

Four Days in Lisbon Itinerary

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Welcome to my travel blog!
I'm Steffie, originally from Belgium, living in the fairytale-like city of Bruges.
I love exploring new places and want to see as much of the world as possible.
On my blog, I want to share my travel tips and ideas. You will find articles about solo female travel, city guides, itineraries, food blogs, and more!

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